Lauraine’s blog
9 November 2011
Over the past weekend I attended a stunning conference for the NZ Guild of Food Writers in Nelson. Suffice to say Nelson turned it on and you can read about it in the blog I posted following this one.
Conferences can be tenuously useful. But this year we had outstanding plenary sessions alongside some worthwhile networking social occasions and our ‘forum-on-wheels’ afternoons that gave us the opportunity to get around the region and really meet the food, beer and wine movers and shakers. It was a learning opportunity for all food writers and some of the big NZ names attended.
But the biggest names were on the speaking programme. Lyndey Milan of Sydney kicked off with her take on the ever changing world of the food writer. She’s sassy, opinionated and clever. She has continued to evolve her career and pointed out the not-so-obvious; "Walk away from a job you are doing really well, even though it may be the hardest thing you have ever contemplated." (I wish she’d given me that advice two years ago.) Lyndey is real life evidence that seizing, or making, new opportunities is achievable and possible. She had opinions I could identify with, especially “Masterchef is merely a game show.” We all loved her.
Following that illuminating talk, three Christchurch food heroes shared their food stories of their terrible past year. Chef Jonny Schwass, caterer Tina Duncan and TV celebrity Richard Till all entertained and enthralled us and I know it was not only me weeping quietly into my hanky at their stories. It was a well received session and our continuing sympathy goes with them all.
Next day it was the turn of the seafood industry and with Ropata Taylor of Wakatu Inc talking on the history of the region and his tribe's relationship to the land and sea, Rachel Taulelei of Yellow Brick Road who is a fish broker in Welleington whose office is a phone, and Danette Olsen of the Cawthron Institute, heading the research team for the aquaculture industry. We were stimulated and informed. I hadn’t thought about the supposed well meaning so-called guardians of our fishing resources who constantly advise us to only eat certain fish because of their sustainability. In fact our strict fishing quotas are managing the resources nicely thank you. What we should be considering when we buy our fish is the way they have been caught and how they have been treated.
And finally the impressive Chief Judge of the Culinary Quills Awards, Rita Erlich from Melbourne. Rita is experienced, respected and a really thorough food writer. She noted that the standard of food writing in New Zealand is excellent in many cases and was quite honest in her appraisal of the work she’d seen. But, she said, the singular most important focus in our food writing should be to convey a sense of place. I could not agree with her more. It is such a pity more editors, the ones who make the decisions about just what is published were not there to hear Rita. Experience is everything and the relationship of the food writer to an audience and how they can be influenced on their eating habits is crucial. Local, fresh and simple are not just buzz words for food. These trends are central to our economy, and should be the very first consideration for good health and enjoyment. So why do we have to suffer food columns and recipes here in New Zealand that are syndicated from papers and magazines written elsewhere for a different market?
Thanks Rita and all our other speakers for your food for thought. Literally.
Pic. Rita Erlich, me and Lyndey Milan at the WOW Museum
6 November 2011
I’m back from a stimulating and delicious weekend in Nelson. The occasion was the NZ Guild of Food Writers’ conference and Culinary Quills Awards, and my swansong as President. Nelson turned on sunny but chilly weather, the awards were well received at a splendid dinner (venison, salmon, beef, lamb and sweet treats accompanied by Tohu wines) in the WOW museum, the conference programme provided plenty of food for thought...more on that in a later posting...and we indulged in fabulous local produce.
Above is my lunch this afternoon on my return home. A simple but perfect plate; chunky sweet Motueka asparagus, creamy Mt Crusader fresh sheep’s cheese, and a drizzle of Kakariki olive oil. All bought fresh at the wonderful Nelson Market where the food writers all headed on Saturday morning. Nita Knight has run the market for more than 30 years, pre-dating all NZ farmer’s markets. The market is a wonderful eclectic mix of fresh produce, meats and Doris’ sausages, artisan products, ready-to-eat treats, and local arts and crafts.
I came home with bags bursting with goodies and wishing I could get another helping of Nana’s Maori bread which at $2 is the best money I have spent in ages. Light puffy shallow fried bread, split open and filled with butter and golden syrup and made from a secret recipe that local chef Cheryl Gillooly was given by her nana just before she died recently.
We ate at four fabulous restaurants; SACHI where the aga-dashi tofu was so good we had three helpings, BOUTEREYS where we were wowed by Matt Bouterey’s fabulous fresh fish and crisp squid with avocado and chilli, HOPGOOD’S in the main street where the fresh cheese stuffed zucchini flowers with Doris’s tangy ham, asparagus and broad beans signalled spring had arrived on our plates, and the ‘iconic’ BOAT SHED. Iconic it is, as the shed sits beautifully out over the water and chef Dan Monopoli’s fresh, original cuisine has finally returned this much loved spot to its former glory. Pan fried whitebait, fresh spring salads, sweet Golden Bay cockles and thick crusty bread. Heaven!
And to top it all off our forums –on-wheels took us to meet the producers and growers of the region. The aquaculture industry is in good hands with the research currently being carried out at Cawthron Institute and by Wakatu Inc, there’s loads of exciting food everywhere, and the art and wine scenes are thriving. A wine-down event at Neudorf was like a scene from one of those clever movies with food producers tempting us with their wares, music, and local beer, cider and stunning Neudorf wines to drink.
There’s only one thing missing. Those locals don’t seem to know how good it all is. There’s no food map, no food group and no marketing done around the lovely restaurants and markets. Come on Nelson! You’ve got it all. Shout it loud and clear and entice food tourists to the region.
2 November 2011
You heard it here first. The decline, if not the death of food television, is imminent. It has run its course. Rick, Jamie, Nigella and our own Simon Gault and Al Brown are not completely washed up, but my guess is that there is not much more upside in television’s current obsession with food.
When TV One took the gamble and moved Masterchef Australia into the slot of beloved Coronation Street which has been running since my Warrington-born grandmother was a fan (she died in 1983) and both programmes lost viewers, one has to realise it’s all-over-clover. (Look at next week’s Listener programme listings. The folks at TV One still had not decided at the time of going to press just what to do once the Master Chef is over on Friday. The 4.55pm slot each day and some of the 7.30pm slots state, ”To be advised.” Yeah right!)
Tonight on the five minutes I tried to watch of the final week of the ultra competitive and showy Masterchef Australia I heard one of the final three contestants say, “I have never cooked Japanese before.” She’s vying for becoming a Master Chef? Really? With a book deal? This could be a newly minted celebrity? She can cook? Hello?
I am not alone in reaching this conclusion. I am a Facebook addict and even some of the most respected of my intelligent friends have posted statements like “I will never watch a fucking cooking show or read another cooking column again” ...and ”I will not watch that stuff.” Ouch! But true.
We have witnessed the Dance of the Desperates in the fading twilight. Gradually it is dawning on just not our nation, but the western world, that all this claptrap of cookery shows is there, just as in glossy food magazines, to create revenue through advertising and promotion. It may have been working for a couple of years but viewers are becoming wiser. The 27.25 hours of food TV scheduled for the coming week on One, Three and Prime will be very lucky to draw as many viewers as the past two years, (and that’s not counting chef and food writers’ appearances on the Good Morning show and Breakfast TV on One, or the 24-hour- 7- day-a-week Food TV channel which is mainly dedicated to Americans we will never meet.)
The problem as I see it is that it’s actually not about food but about the Cult of the Celebrity. It’s all about ‘me, me and me.’ Too bad that not one food presenter actually shows their food in a way that will inspire viewers to rush to the kitchen with new found knowledge. (Apologies to Rick Stein and Delia Smith whom I believe are great culinary teachers with down-to-earth simple fare, and Simon Gault and Nici Wickes who win my prize for genuinely nice, believable food personalities on NZ television.)
Too bad that Masterchef makes little kids cook like super-pastry-chef Adriano Zumbo with his years and years of experience getting to the top. Too bad that cookery books only sell if the author is a TV celebrity. And worst of all, too bad that trying to cook can make people squirm and cry. Cooking and the resulting food should be a joyous experience, not trumped up entertainment. Bring on the next Big Thing, pu-leeze.
16 October 2011
What would you serve royalty? Kiwi fare of course. Local Mahurangi oysters and white bait fritters followed by a barbecue of lamb and local Salumeria Fontana sausages with with kumara salad, fresh asparagus and snapper and scallops, and then lamingtons and meringues. All washed down with Brick Bay's Rose, Pinot Gris and Pharos 2005 wines. Food by the lovely Sue Fleischl of The Great Catering Company.
My shot above is taken at Brick Bay today: it's the dessert served to Prince Albert of Monaco at a delightfully casual private lunch for his party of visitors to the RWC semi finals.
We loved the Prince. And he's backing the All Blacks.
15 October 2011
I just attended the most inspiring and useful demonstration. It was held in an unlikely venue for a pork event. But the Auckland Seafood School (!!) has a terrific demonstration area, with tiered seating so food writers and several butchers from Foodstuffs had a terrific view of expert butcher David Porter of Harmony as he cut up a whole pig and shared secrets of the butcher with us.
It was all terrifically informative, and even though I thought I knew most cuts, I learned all sorts of cooking tips. The best value that we can buy is pork scotch fillet, and it cannot be emphasised enough that pork can be be cooked and served nicely juicy and a little pink. Also, another tip is always buy thicker, rather than thinner cuts. I took home some 2.5 cm schnitzel and it was amazing, pink, juicy and tasty.
David Porter is a meat genius and I was delighted to see the owner and butchery manager from my local New World Remuera supermarket in attendance. They have great meat there!
Nick Honeyman, chef at the about-to-open new restaurant Cru says he finds a pig's head really useful. When David had portioned the pig into the cuts we above, Nick gave a short, really good cooking demo. He's a natural! His crispy pork tails and pork head terine were amazing, and after seeing his demonstration of making crackling,it'll be perfect crackling every time in my kitchen from henceforth. Nick's a honey(man)!
One more thing: Always buy New Zealand- raised Pork like Harmony, Freedom Farms and other reliable brands and don't be fooled by pork that is sourced overseas and processed here. Read the small print and shop at a reputable butcher or supermarket.
1 October 2011
Above is pictured my home for a few days, the Black and White house at Temple Tree, Langkawi. The tiny resort, next to sister property Bon Ton is only about ten minutes drive from the airport, and I arrived on a connecting Malaysian Airways from Kuala Lumpur. I am on a research mission to find the best of the island’s Malaysian food.
Langkawi has some gorgeous international five star hotels, all with amenities that well-heeled travellers expect; TVs, phones, golf courses, sandy beaches, a multitude of restaurants and bars and carpeted rooms so that when you awaken you could be anywhere in the world. But why travel to do that? Tick another destination off the list?
Temple Tree is different. Owner Narelle McMurtrie and her business partner Alison Fraser sourced eight almost derelict 80-100 yr-old villas with different cultural influences from all over the Malaysian peninsula. They were dismantled, every piece of timber numbered and then rebuilt on a secluded site near the coast and adjacent to local wetlands. Black & White, a Malay style house was originally in Negri Sembilan but sits beautifully in its new surrounds and should last another hundred years. The floors are the original ancient hardwood planks and I love the way when I take a shower the water just runs down back to the ground through the cracks between the boards. Electric fans whirr over head to keep me cool and a few of the cats from Narelle’s Langkawi Animal Shelter & Sanctuary (LASSie) have adopted me.
Also on the site there’s a choice of two attractive lap pools and the Eurasian style Straits Club House (shipped from Penang) where guests and tourists staying elsewhere on the island can snack and enjoy delicious food. Bon Ton next door is open to all too, and there Narelle gathered eight traditional Malay Kedah houses on stilts and set them around another lovely pool. The main adminstrative centre is there, the resort restaurant, and Chin Chin Bar & Lounge, an original Chinese shop house, is ideal for relaxing and enjoying Langkawi cuisine. Narelle is a real Foodie so this is known as the best restaurant on the island.
When I think about all those tourists attracted to the bright glitzy bars along the waterfront near by and closeting themselves in shiny hotels, I am concerned that tourism has taken a strange turn in the last fifteen years. Surely we travel to find adventure, new experiences and eat bona fide local food? It seems we’ve forgotten about the unusual, and all the authentic experiences of resorts like this, which are actually labours of love, can offer?
www.templetree.com.my www.bonton.com.my
17 September 2011
I was not a fan of semillon. Few grow the grape in New Zealand and the wines I’ve tasted always seemed harsh, a little woody and rather lacking in fruit. But an afternoon spent with Bruce Tyrell at his famous family vineyard and winery in the Hunter Valley last week convinced me otherwise. If you want to taste semillon and love it, start at the top.
Tyrell’s is a family owned winery that dates back to 1858. Bruce Tyrell, the current CEO and family head is fourth generation and it seems like the business might continue for many more generations, as his children are involved and every bit as passionate as he is. The shed (above) has been kept as an historic symbol on the hilltop site, but guards the original winery which itself is a complete eye-opener. In an age when wineries seem to think they need to build monuments to themselves, Tyrell’s modest buildings (dirt floors, old oak casks of mammoth proportions by today’s standards) belie the quality, success and fame that has been attained by their wines.
After a fascinating tour of his winery Bruce Tyrell invited us to his private tasting room. We were privileged. On the walls were photos of the family and a map that showed the many family vineyards scattered throughout the Hunter Valley. The Hunter is a great two day grape escape from Sydney - it takes a mere two hours in light traffic to reach from the Harbour Bridge and loads of accommodation options and some fine restaurants can be found. Tyrell’s also have vineyards in McLarenVale, Heathcote and the Limestone Coast.
We tasted and sipped our way through four semillons, two chardonnays, a deliciously soft Vat 6 pinot noir 2010, and five shiraz wines. Wow. The chardys were fascinating and I thought the Belford 2009 chardonnay was a ‘must buy.” The shiraz wines were really tasty and I’d love to get my hands on a bottle of the Lunatiq Heathcote shiraz ’09 which seemed to the first- ever female version of that varietal.
Tyrell’s are recognised around the world for their semillon and the six year-old Vat 1 from 2005 was a total knockout. Fresh as a daisy and totally reminiscent of Roses’ lime juice this wine convinced me I could love semillon! I also loved the single vineyard semillon from Belford, and the Johnno’s basket pressed semillon. Delectable. And guess what? I found that much awarded ’05 semillon at Sydney airport duty free. So I brought some home. Who’s for drinks?
16 September 2011
I have had my first taste of The Cloud. It was a long walk in windy wet weather to the furthest end of the Queen’s Wharf for a press reception this week. Visitors who manage to find their way there should be impressed. Apparently research shows that the overseas perception of New Zealand food is still “sauvignon blanc, frozen lamb and milk powder.” (In 2011?) So the organisers have brought together a host of generous and excellent suppliers from around the country to address that astonishingly misguided idea.
The space, once you’ve passed through the “We Think Differently Here” exhibits, is divided into four areas; rural, urban, winery/orchard and seaside. Some Clever Bastards (literally) have stylised the surrounds in appropriate splashes of colour, and you can eat and drink your way through each space (at a cost). Portions are tiny but the drinks are generous and at $57 for 8 tastes with matching drinks, it is reasonable value unless you’re a hulking great front- row-forward rugby player.
I especially loved the rosemary marinated beef brioche burger with Whitestone cheddar and beetroot relish (pic above), a Marlborough clam chowder with lemon oil and herbs, and the lamb cutlet with mash and a green olive mint salsa. It’s sophisticated food and the accompanying beverages range from wine matches to local juices, mineral waters and organic fizzy drinks. And unlike the RWC sponsorships, competitors in business sit nicely beside each other, drawn together to promote NZ’s superb bounty.
But. And it’s a big but. The absence of our wonderful New Zealand chefs who have their hands on our amazing produce each and every day as they work away with it in their restaurants and cafés around New Zealand is incredibly noticeable. The organisers have called on three Australian/English restaurateurs, (and Annabel Langbein), to triumph our food. Admittedly Josh Emmett, Justin North and Warren Turnbull were all born here and are all unquestionably fine chefs, but they’ve all fled the coop and live elsewhere now. They don’t work with New Zealand’s best products in the very environment these products are sourced from.
What’s wrong with superstars here like Simon Gault, Al Brown, Michael van de Elzen, who the public know from their fine restaurants and fascinating TV images? Or superb chefs like Martin Bosley, Rex Morgan, Jonny Schwass, Simon Wright, Geoff Scott, Judith Tabron, Michael Meredith, Sid Sarawat, Ben Bayly, Kate Fay and tens of others? Where are they? Why have they not been cajoled into participating? The world visits us and we can’t put these chefs on the one and only chance of a world stage for the curious visitors? It’s no wonder the perception of our food is anchored in the eighties. Once again it seems we suffer from cultural and culinary cringe.
14 September 2011
- Barrio Chino; A new hot and cheap Mexican restaurant in Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross. Don’t miss the quesadillas, ceviche, the meaty albondigas, a huge range of tacos and the best selection of tequilas and margaritas outside Mexico. 28 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cross T 02 8021 9817
- Toko; this popular Japanese restaurant in Surry Hills is crushed every night but plenty of room at lunch for a light interesting meal. Superbly fresh sashimi and sushi and the lacquered eggplant is to die for. 490 Crown St, Surry Hills t 02 9357 6100
- Westfield’s new shopping centre, opposite David Jones in Pitt St brings glamour back to inner city shopping. Shop till you drop with every luxury label positioning a glitzy store there. Favourite? The golden lacy glass storefront of Miu Miu.
- Justin North’s stable of restaurants, cafes and eateries at Westfield. Becasse has moved there with a flowery new look, but I long for the former site with its bustling European feel. Turn instead to adjacent sister restaurant Quarter Twenty One where the food is more approachable and still unmistakably with Justin’s stamp. Also a great café and bakery, a wine store with fresh produce and a cooking school! Enter at Pitt St T 02 8064 7900
- The Foodcourt on Westfield’s fourth floor takes top marks for the sheer quality of the food offered. Love the Din Tai Fung noodle bar for the soupy pork dumplings, Justin North’s Charlie & Co where you can get a wagyu burger with truffle essence and the Snag Shop with superb gourmet sausages in a play on hot dogs. Could eat here all day and into the evening too.
- Take the ferry to Manly if it’s a sunny day. The promenade features a range of cafes and eating houses, all opposite that beautiful sandy surf beach. My pick? Manly Wine, brought to you by the same people as Gazebo and The Winery. 8-13 South Steyne, T 02 8966 9000
- Escape to the Hunter Valley. Only a two hour drive on the freeway north, it’s a great place to spend a night or two and relax, drinking beautiful Semillon and Shiraz wines. The ‘don’t miss’ wineries are Tyrell’s, Mistletoe and Brokenwood. Eat at Muse, The Cellar and Esca Bimbadgen, all in Pokolbin.
- Smith’s on Bayswater has just taken over where the Bayswater Brasserie left off. Excellent value with great steaks and generous side orders. Hasn’t quite hit the right atmosphere yet. 32 Bayswater rd, T 02 9357 2177
- And enjoy all the atmosphere of the RWC without the crowds or trains that can’t or won’t get you there by watching the big screens at The London, a fashionable Paddington pub where the pizzas are thin crusted and authentic. 85 Underwood St,
Paddington T 02 9331 3200
- Best breakfast in town is at Sonoma Bakery Café at the Fiveways in Paddington. The cured salmon platter with ricotta, avocado and mint and a softish boiled egg on their excellent sourdough ‘Miche’ toast is heaven. We even bought bread to pack in our cases so we can still enjoy it back home here! 214 Glenmore Rd, T 02 9331 3601
- And an 11th reason; to visit my beautiful daughter who knows all the best places!
2 September 2011
Last night I saw four men wrestle for almost ten minutes. Sean Connolly had the honour of opening his Grill at Sky City's new 'eat street' (The Depot and Red Hummingbird have also just opened, joining Dine by Peter Gordon and Bellotta in Federal St.) To celebrate Sean was supposed to release the top of a Salmanazar (9 litres) of Veuve Clicquot.
The cork refused to budge so the sommelier took over, then a brawny League player had a go and finally Luke Dallow gave the bottle more than a few shakes and finally the cork popped. Delicious.
Finger food only last night but if the lobster burgers, Alaskan King Crab sandwiches, whole suckling pig with crispy skin, Sterling caviar and more are anything to go by The Grill is on my list of must-go-tos. Stunning design by Andrew Lister and a remarkable white tiled kitchen on full view. The city hots up!