5 December 2011

THE NEXT CULINARY STAR

Last week I attended the Random House Christmas party. There's no doubt in my mind that the head honchos at the New Zealand branch of this international publishing house have some of the highest publishing values in the industry. Al Brown, Michael van de Elzen and Judith Tabron's restaurant books have all been stunning (last year's Martin Bosley takes the cake however for presentation) and Wanaka - the book from Whare Kea is outstanding. The party was great as there are always so many interesting authors and writers there from every sector of NZ life. My favourite chat is always with Ken Ring (we went to college together and he's rather misunderstood!)

After the party I went with my co-authors of the NZ Vegetable Cookbook - still selling well - to Cru. Nick Honeyman, pictured above is the chef there. He's amazing, a young South African-born boy who has cooked with some of the best chefs Europe and Japan including Pascal Barbot of the highly acclaimed L'Astrance in Paris. He cooks a five or eight degustation menu that is intricate, indulgent and incredibly delicious. (There is a la carte too.)

Cru is tucked into the back of Sale Street. Luke Dallow, a seasoned and successful operator set the place up as a bar, hired Nick Honeyman to cook for both the extensive bar (and it's huge and noisy) and in an exclusive little restaurant at the back. Those in the know love it, as we did. The quail was exceptional; tender, beautifully seasoned and presented and we love Nick's playful approach to desserts.

But there's a big But. It's impossible to completely shut out the relentless, mindless thud of the bar music. DB ( a large NZ brewery company for those who don't follow beer) has bought the place. No doubt they see the upside in the bar trade. I hope they also see the incredible talented Nick Honeyman who they have in their kitchen and do something about sound proofing that incredible little space at the back.

Don't let me put you off. Go early and experience the food of one of the fastest rising chefs we have in Auckland (the young maitre'd is superb too) and let's hope DB can see this team for more than just bottom line profit. Nick Honeyman deserves recognition.