Lauraine’s blog
17 May 2012
At the Auckland Writers & Readers Festival event, High Tea at the Langham,a question was asked of our food writing panel who were discussing the 'Generosity of Food.' "What do you all eat while you're writing?" Our answers varied from nothing to a cup of tea and snacks. Personally my favourite is miso soup, made with miso paste and dashi stock. I love that umami dimension that comes through the savoury nature of this light broth.It's so comforting.
So I seized upon a brand new product at the Wellington Food Show last weekend. A young Japanese chef, Takehito Maeda and his wife have spent the last seven months perfecting miso paste. It is the first miso paste to be made in New Zealand, made from Motueka soy beans and Marlborough natural sea salt. The process Takehito uses involves fermenting the beans for almost six months and it is unpasteurised. They market it under "Urban Hippie" brand.
Such is the power of social media that Ricky Lee and Makato from the highly rated Auckland restaurant Cocoro noticed my tweet about this miso and asked me for more info. So I took the packet I had purchased over to them and Makato whipped it up with dashi stock for us to taste-test it. Cocoro imports an organic miso from the USA and so we tried both; the American miso was good, but the new product that I had purchased form Takehito at the Foos show was very good, we all agreed.
We loved the texture, loved the saltiness and the subtle flavour, and I will be ordering more. I hope Cocoro does too!
If you want to try this miso, call Takehito on T 021 031 3527 or email him info@urbanhippie.co.nz
(Pic is Ricky and Makato tasting the miso at Cocoro)
8 May 2012
I am just back from Sydney and already missing it. We ate some really outstanding food in the new hot places, and also had a dose or two of familiar comfort food to keep us on the straight and narrow.
I’d been alerted to the opening of Sixpenny in suburban Stanmore, and have to say that was the pinnacle. It’s worth a whole special feature itself so that will follow soon. Apollo in Potts Point really appealed for its modern rustic Greek treats and lively didn’t cost-a-lot-to-set-up atmosphere that is so typically Sydney-esque (think long blond hair on every woman and the obligatory black clothes, men’s white or striped shirts hanging out everywhere.)
Neild Ave in the street of the same name is the newbie from the creators of Icebergs and here the décor did cost-a-lot just like the simple herbed grill food that dominates the menu. Three Blue Ducks in Bronte was worth the wonderfully exhilarating walk around the coast from Bondi; youthful, casual and with great attention to detail; like herbs and hens in the backyard and healthful hearty salads. It’s work in progress with a bar next door due to come into play shortly. And then Chiswick; Matt Moran’s new garden place in the heart of Woollahra where the food was fast and chic, and everybody in the room was dining with their adult kids (as we were.)
But what was the most impressive was Sydney service. Every single place we ate had someone in front who had personality and made you feel like you were the best thing that had arrived that day. It’s the little things that matter in the end. Lots of Sydney restaurants have a no-bookings policy. My daughter tells me that means she and her friends eat out early in the week as it’s mostly the case that unless you show up at 5pm, you encounter a wait of two hours on Fridays and Saturdays.
At Apollo the maitre d’ took our cell phone number, sent us to the nearby Roosevelt for cocktails for 45 minutes but called us a mere 30 minutes later to say he had a table for us. At Sixpenny the maitre d’ welcomed us with a complimentary glass of bubbles and the chefs proudly carried our food to the table. At Three Blue Ducks the staff carefully found the right wine.
And in every case, the staff knew the menu so well they could describe every dish as if it was their favourite. They all knew their wines too. In every place the staff had smart clean uniforms. Lots of tap water poured frequently so we didn’t have to ask. All our meals were delivered at a fairly clippy pace – no endless waiting for entrees, wine or water top-ups. And they all seemed to keep their attention on us right through to the end. The bill arrived promptly, was processed immediately and cabs called for us pronto.
And it wasn’t just the new places where service was great. We ate a comforting pub meal at the Paddington Arms, had a great breakfast and coffee at Sonoma bakery, and best of all returned to Bill’s original café in Liverpool St, Darlinghurst where the food is as fresh as it was all those years ago when Bill started out.
Pic: Salt cured tuna with cucumber, coriander, seaweed & sesame starter at Chiswick
3 May 2012
It's not often I post an interior shot rather than the foood of a restaurant but the new decor at Soto is so cool I cannot resist.
After nine years the more traditional Japanese style has been swept out and Designworks have given this very good modern Japanese restaurant a stunning backdrop to match the Izakaya food. For too long our city's ethnic restaurants have been second cousins to the more sophisticated decor in top tier places, but ta-daa! The old tired garden/conservatory has gone and there's light, style and a wonderful array of clever design features.
And in an age where we all want shared, casual plates of delicious things the style of eating here really hits the spot. Light, delicate, full of wonderful umami flavours, this is Japanese casual eating at its best.
Don't miss the oysters with ponzu, the grilled fish with pickled ginger, a smart fashionable beetroot carpaccio, pork cheeks in an open wrap (almost Mexican style), and juicy duck breast on cold soba noodles. But for me the standout is the prawns in tempura with chili mayo. I want to know where to get such fabulous prawns, and how to make that tempura batter that's so light it is merely a quick, crisp sensation on the tongue. Next time I will order a double of that dish!
Soto, 13 St Mary's Rd, Ponsonby T 09 360 0021
30 April 2012
FRIDAY 11 MAY 1.30pm to 2.30pm Join me for the definitive Masterclass on duck and pinot noir at the Food Show Wellington.
"Love duck, but not sure how to deal with it? Love wine, and like to find good food matches? In this intensive Masterclass, NZ Listener food columnist Lauraine Jacobs will talk you through everything you need to know to produce delicious duck dishes. She’ll share secrets for preparing her favourite duck recipes, show you how to prepare twice roasted duck, including halving a whole duck and removing the carcass bones, and explain how to achieve very crispy skin and moist duck breast. Duck tastings will be paired with pinot noir to give you a chance to taste this magical combination."
Once only opportunity Tickets $50 (with goody bag) from www.foodshow.co.nz
25 April 2012
That year went quickly! Last weekend Ebisu, one of the star openings of 2011 celebrated its one year birthday.
A thoroughly contemporary Japanese Restaurant, Ebisu sits smack bang on Quay St with a sunny conservatory out front facing that ever-encroaching Port. It's airy, light and not ever too crowded even when its busy. (The landlord Britomart, is guardian of three exceptionally good restaurants in the precinct; Cafe Hanoi, Mexico and my favourite; Ebisu.)
After one year, it was time for a menu change so we ate our way through all the new dishes. The menu sticks pretty close to authenticity, and the flavours seem to have been boosted in this new menu. There's a lot more spice and slightly peppery dishes and I like that!
Standouts were the marinated scotch fillet - oh so tender and sweet, the beautifully presented sashimi of yellowfin tuna, and one of kingfish, a superb sliced duck breast that almost had flavour overload and some wonderful vegetarian dishes not to be missed.
Of course Ebisu's famous agadashi tofu continues, as does the classical tempura, and the sushi dishes. Above is the clever presentation of prawn sushi, which marries traditional sushi with tempura. And don't miss the black sesame ice cream to finish. It's a little unusual but terrific.
Ebisu, 116 Quay St, Britomart T 09 300 5271
17 April 2012
As an appetiser tonight we devoured this smoked mullet in record time. The husband is a fisherman of great repute, especially around the Omaha Beach boat ramp and even he could not believe just how tasty this fish is.
"I thought mullet was a bait fish," he said, quickly hoovering up the greater part of the moist flesh.
It was smoky, salty and savoury at once and the thing that makes it such great eating is the oil. So much of the essential oils and vitamin D we need! I removed it from its elegant Aqua Apatu packaging and placed it in tinfoil. It was then into a hot oven for 8 minutes and was ready to eat with lemon wedges and some Best mayonnaise.
Hamish and Nichola Apatu moved from Hawke's Bay to Coopers Beach in the Far North to set up their smokehouse for locally caught seafood and they are now one of what I would call NZ's true taonga (or gift.) They also have a range of other seafood treasures including the most amazing Kina Pate.
All available in my local New World in Remuera, or if you can't make it to there, phone them on T 09 406 2015.
PS If you're far from my New World you can also order the Aqua Apatu range online through www.kai.co.nz
13 April 2012
I took my mother for a drive yesterday along Dominion Rd. We lived in Valley Rd when I was young, so it was a familiar stamping ground; somewhere where we went to the doctor, bought our shoes and conversed with our neighbours. How it has changed!
It's a total miscellany of businesses and there are some stunning shops and restaurants. There's also what seems like hundreds of tiny ethnic eating places and I would love to have recommendations for many of them. My mum was quite put out that her favourite vege shop had gone, to be replaced by a Chinese cafe.
La Voie Francaise at 875 Dom Rd is a French bakery not-to-be-missed! The young Japanese baker, whose name is Tetsuya, creates amazing bread and feather light pastries - the best artisan products I have seen or tasted since I was in Paris. Those are his breads in the photo, and they disappeared in about five minutes when I got them home.(I was the only one there!)
Next door at 873 is Serandip, a stunning treasure trove of Sri Lankan food products that brought back memories of last year's trip. I bought red rice, mango chutney and my favourite herbal remedy as an insurance against the cooler weather. It's posibly the cleanest, best organised Asian store around.
And then there are the restaurants. Michael Meredith's sensational place is at 365 Dom Rd. He stole the show at the recent South Pacific food and wine festival in Fiji with his freestyling with green coconut and I would love to see him do a totally Pacific-inspired degustation menu there.
At 215 Dom Rd is the wonderful Jeremy Schmid's Two Fifteen bistro. He's the master of sausage making and cured meats and I have had a sneaky peek at his forthcoming book. It echoes all the things I think about his food; deliciously approachable, unfussy and with huge emphasis on flavour. My mother wants to go there for her 89th birthday next month and it will be perfect.
And just off the road on the corner of Dominion Rd and Walters Ave at the Valley Rd intersection is Serafin. How classy is this? A tiny gem where Serafin Bueno Sanz himself produces a range of tapas that start with little toppings on bread and work their way through to meaty treats. It's a real touch of Spain in the neighbourhood and a real treasure.
1 April 2012
This amazing pork belly, was cooked to perfection on the rotisserie at Wakatipu Grill by Qtown's exec chef Peter Thornley last night. Served with salt baked pears, swede, horseradish and and Colman's mustard. I had some house made pancetta on toasted sourdough baguette by head chef Mario to kick off, then my entree was the most amazing baked Detroit beetroot with goat curd wrapped in brik pastry and hazelnut puree tea raisins and orange flower vinaigrette. I looked in envy at the yellowfin tuna carpaccio served with serrano ham,juniper, white anchovy, pomelo and red shallots. The husband thought the venison was the best he'd ever had! a fabulous autumn menu.
The menu is outstanding, especially the entrees and I can't wait to eat here again. Thornley is a perfectionist chef, who stands in the open kitchen cooking in full view of the diners and guess what? There's laughter and fun noises emanating from the kitchen all evening long.
Is this the best hotel dining in NZ? I think so.
24 March 2012
I am not always home on Saturday night so thank god for MySky. This time next week I will either be watching, (or that little black box in my study will be recording) the fabulous Lyndey Milan's latest TV programme.
She's been touring with crew in Ireland and I had a sneak preview of the series, Lyndey Milan's Taste of Ireland last week. Lyndey is a good friend of the lovely Sean Connolly, so she held a private lunch at his Auckland restaurant, The Grill in Sky City. Sean cooked some dishes from the show and we were in heaven tasting real food, cooked by a real chef and orchestrated by a really feisty, talented woman.
Lyndey travelled throughout Ireland meeting producers, restaurateurs and exploring the countryside. I can't wait to see the episode when she was with my great friend Darina Allen at Ballymaloe Cooking school. It will be terrific.
MEanwhile above is the most silky rich Irish style creme brulee we enjoyed, accompanied by real Irish coffee - as strong as the day is long! Don't miss this wonderfully witty and entertaining programme on Saturday nights on Food TV starting March 30.
Lyndey Milan's Taste of Ireland. 8 weeks of blissful food.
7 March 2012
They're back. The best oysters in the world, and this year they're fatter and even more delicious and juicy than ever.
Bluff Oyster Day atSoul has to be the best restaurant promo in the universe. $50 bought as many oysters as you could eat...straight from the shucker, the now famous Keith of Bluff. He shucks about 300 an hour and believe me the salty taste straight from the shell is incomparable.
Not only fresh oysters but deep fried, Oysters Kilpatrick, oysters with wasabi mayo and tartare, fresh lemon or vinaigrette. If that isn't enough a frothy oyster cappucino and then a beef and oyster pie. Chef Gareth Stewart and host Judith Tabron has us all impressed.
Don't miss this absolute treat on the Soul menu.