8 May 2012

SYDNEY EATS & SERVICE

I am just back from Sydney and already missing it. We ate some really outstanding food in the new hot places, and also had a dose or two of familiar comfort food to keep us on the straight and narrow.

I’d been alerted to the opening of Sixpenny in suburban Stanmore, and have to say that was the pinnacle. It’s worth a whole special feature itself so that will follow soon. Apollo in Potts Point really appealed for its modern rustic Greek treats and lively didn’t cost-a-lot-to-set-up atmosphere that is so typically Sydney-esque (think long blond hair on every woman and the obligatory black clothes, men’s white or striped shirts hanging out everywhere.)

Neild Ave in the street of the same name is the newbie from the creators of Icebergs and here the décor did cost-a-lot just like the simple herbed grill food that dominates the menu. Three Blue Ducks in Bronte was worth the wonderfully exhilarating walk around the coast from Bondi; youthful, casual and with great attention to detail; like herbs and hens in the backyard and healthful hearty salads. It’s work in progress with a bar next door due to come into play shortly. And then Chiswick; Matt Moran’s new garden place in the heart of Woollahra where the food was fast and chic, and everybody in the room was dining with their adult kids (as we were.)

But what was the most impressive was Sydney service. Every single place we ate had someone in front who had personality and made you feel like you were the best thing that had arrived that day. It’s the little things that matter in the end. Lots of Sydney restaurants have a no-bookings policy. My daughter tells me that means she and her friends eat out early in the week as it’s mostly the case that unless you show up at 5pm, you encounter a wait of two hours on Fridays and Saturdays.

At Apollo the maitre d’ took our cell phone number, sent us to the nearby Roosevelt for cocktails for 45 minutes but called us a mere 30 minutes later to say he had a table for us. At Sixpenny the maitre d’ welcomed us with a complimentary glass of bubbles and the chefs proudly carried our food to the table. At Three Blue Ducks the staff carefully found the right wine.

And in every case, the staff knew the menu so well they could describe every dish as if it was their favourite. They all knew their wines too. In every place the staff had smart clean uniforms. Lots of tap water poured frequently so we didn’t have to ask. All our meals were delivered at a fairly clippy pace – no endless waiting for entrees, wine or water top-ups. And they all seemed to keep their attention on us right through to the end. The bill arrived promptly, was processed immediately and cabs called for us pronto.

And it wasn’t just the new places where service was great. We ate a comforting pub meal at the Paddington Arms, had a great breakfast and coffee at Sonoma bakery, and best of all returned to Bill’s original café in Liverpool St, Darlinghurst where the food is as fresh as it was all those years ago when Bill started out.

Pic: Salt cured tuna with cucumber, coriander, seaweed & sesame starter at Chiswick