Lauraine Jacobs

Food & Wine Writer

9 May 2015


No apologies for the length of this post - these are the issues I addressed at ConversatioNZ, an extraordinary event organised by Giulio Sturla of Roots Restaurant in Lyttleton last week.

"It is a real privilege it is to be in Christchurch and at the forefront of another exciting step in the gastronomic awakening of our country. We’re all here to discuss and rejoice in New Zealand’s bounty; most of us here understand, and believe, that we have simply the best food in the world. None of us lives more than 15 km from a farm, no one lives more than 200 km from a vineyard and in a country that is only 1200km long, we have an astonishing 19000 km of coastline. There is no excuse for not knowing what is fresh and what is good. We may not be the most intensive farmers in the world but we understand how to produce the very best food, or catch and forage for amazing produce – produce that is all raised or found growing in the cleanest air in the world as those breezes and winds never stop. We are so lucky.

So my first challenge; To think about why our New Zealand food stories are being told so poorly and infrequently. I had dinner at the French Embassy in Wellington last month and the Ambassador proudly told us the primary reason people visit France is for the food and wine. That embarrassed me. When did we see our official Tourism Department and the Minister of Tourism, John Key no less, exhorting people seeking an exciting culinary experience to visit New Zealand?

Yet without exception we all know visitors arrive, fall in love with our food and wine and tell us they did not know it would be so good. They have no idea before arriving!

Our economy is underpinned by food production with more than 50% of our exports coming from land and sea and yet it seems all we promote is extreme adventure, amazing scenery and Hobbits. I am sick to death of those bloody Hobbits. Do hobbits seek out delicious fresh food and aromatic zingy sauvignon blanc? I doubt it. Thankfully I did spy a Los Angeles camera crew in the Matakana market a couple of weeks ago. They had been commissioned to shoot a Facebook video campaign for the American market on New Zealand food and wine experiences. The motivation for this came out of a survey that the local New Zealand Tourism Bureau in LA had done on perceptions of NZ. Several people had enquired during that survey “Are there any roads in New Zealand?” Hopefully this food driven video or series that I fell across may go viral, but it is still just the thin edge of the wedge.

The print media is not much better than this shameful and neglectful attitude of creating our food tourism thrust. Where are the stories about our top chefs, our artisan producers, our farmers and the foraging and growing? Our food magazines are losing readers hand over fist and are filled with recipe features, with few stories behind the food or any explanation of the history of the recipes. They have not kept up with the appetite for the likes of Lucky Peach, Fool, Cherry Bombe, Toast and more with their insightful stories of food and producers.

Our newspapers mainly stick any food stories in the business section, and the internet isn’t cutting it. There may be a few food and travel bloggers out there, but right now we seem to be focussed on Zomato and Trip Advisor where a bunch of unqualified eaters post their gripes just to make your life miserable. Hopefully, they occasionally offer you a few kudos for great experiences.

Truly respected restaurant critics are few and far between as most give boring accounts of what they ate on a particular night and seem to forget dining out is an experience focussed on food but bringing so many other things into play. Few bother to research so they can tell the story behind the restaurant philosophy and provide information about the chef, the food sources and the atmosphere. On TV Masterchef and My Kitchen Rules serve up food as a competition, complete with tears, shouting and trips overseas to find food, much of which could and should be easily discovered and shot here. So hallelujah for Choice TV and for the Food Channel as they carry shows where the food stories and personalities are actually well worth watching and learning from, albeit shot on the international rather than local stage.

It took twenty years of imagination, ambition, risk and enormous sponsorship that is not easy to find for Annabel Langbein to succeed, and to tell our food stories here and take her series internationally.

Our supermarket scene, dominated by two companies, does not deliver shopping experiences that encourage customers to think about the provenance of their food and to be selective when they can. We are not really getting to grips with food stories. It is all very challenging.

My second challenge; What are the things that make our food so special, - special enough to possibly start us moving closer towards a unique New Zealand food culture? Can we identify anything tangible that sets us apart? What is New Zealand food? David Burton of Wellington who is undoubtedly our most talented and respected food writer published a scholarly book '200 Years of New Zealand Food & Cookery' in 1982. He revised it more than 25 years later and re-issued it in 2009 as 'New Zealand Food & Cookery', complete with updates and many more stories. I would like to think every chef in our country owned a copy or at least had a chance to read this book as David lays down the foundation of our food - the whitebait, lamb, kina and koura, scones and mutton birds, and a host of other uniquely kiwi stuff. His recipes are hardly cutting edge but the basics are all there. It is simply, New Zealand food.

My third challenge; To find a way to tell the world about our food. The media currently barely touch on it so we are going to have rely on chefs and producers to tell the stories. Chefs and creative artisans are always the people who set the trends in food. Today’s stunning idea becomes the nation’s dinner in about 3-5 years’ time.

The fastest way to do this is through menus and labels. So this is not just about putting uniquely New Zealand food on the menu or in the jar, but writing in such a way that diners and consumers are left in no doubt that this is the real deal they are eating and buying into. I love it when a menu gives the diner a sense of place by explaining where the food has come from, who grew it or who the artisan was who supplied the product. I am sure this will resonate with the growers too, as for far too long food has been a mere commodity and by telling the stories our farmers will take far more pride in their work. Facebook and other social media sites are the perfect vehicle for spreading the word. Be proud of what you do. Get it out there!

You can change the world: It was only about ten years ago that there were two sorts of oysters here; Bluffs and the rest. Now any restaurant worth eating in will provide the provenance of the oysters being served. Discerning diners are starting to notice that the taste of an oyster depends on where it was grown - Tio Point, Te Matuku, Clevedon Coast, Mahurangi, Orongo Bay, Bluff and many more. Other farmer/producer grown initiatives have seen the success of producers like Curious Croppers, Lot Eight Olive Oil, any number of artisan cheesemakers, and many more.

Also to bring attention to our food, be strong about being ‘local’. All around New Zealand specialties of the area can be found – it would be well worth ensuring that local restaurants have such specialised local foods on the menu and displayed on blackboards and walls, whenever and wherever possible. It would be a shame for a diner in Hawkes Bay not to be offered the local lamb with Gimblett Gravels syrah or lovely fresh stonefruit grown there with a peachy local chardonnay. In Marlborough it should be a given that mussels or salmon from the Sounds are on every menu, offered matched to local sauvignon blanc; while in the far North imagine not being able to try the local snapper and crayfish and the pinot gris that thrives there. I could go on and on but I am sure you get the picture?

The biggest challenge and final challenge is to develop cutting edge food that attracts the attention of the world. We are ideally placed to do this as we literally live on the edge of the world with very few of the food traditions like the Chinese, the French or the Italians are forced to adhere to.

If you look at who has garnered world attention with new startlingly original cuisine directions in the past fifteen years, it was first the Spanish who released a ton of newfound energy once they shook off the shackles of decades of domination under Franco’s regime. Ferran Adria became a name known on kitchens world-wide with his revolutionary techniques, and soon there were a host of other Spanish chefs literally tailgating him.

Then came the Nordic revival. Before Rene Redzepi, the food in Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Iceland was caught in a time warp, probably similar to the cookery as it had been for centuries. Along came Redzepi, foraging and producing a rather spartan but exciting new wave of food that others soon embraced and emulated. These countries were nowhere near the forefront of the world’s culinary calendar but look at them now.

Today we start a discussion to answer these challenges. We can look to the Pacific for inspiration as Robert Oliver and Michael Meredith have done and reflect on their work; (Michael’s demonstration of what a chef can do with a coconut at the South Pacific Food Forum in Fiji three years ago was one of the most original culinary workshops I have ever attended.) Robert’s book Me’a Kai showcases Pacific food but not as we knew it.

And we can look at the work of food heroes like Peter Gordon and Che Barrington who are embracing concepts of cooking; both food, techniques and the ingredients of our neighbours in South East Asia; reworking them with fine New Zealand ingredients. There are grand ideas to build on.

I remember sitting in Martin Bosley’s restaurant and being served just one oyster – nothing special about that, but it was spilling out of a perfect little flax woven Maori kete. The connection to gathering and the food was right there on the plate. It brought tears to my eyes.

I loved seeing the collaboration dinner as posted on Instagram between Michael Meredith and Matt Lambert in Auckland last week. Matt showed one of their courses: feijoa, horseradish and raw surf clams. As I read that you probably go “What?” But it looked amazing in the photo and I so wanted to try that. Pure New Zealand. That is the future we know we are chasing.

And we cannot look to the future without honouring the past and some of the original ideas of great New Zealand chefs who have gone before us, cooking up a storm. But the biggest storm may yet be about to be unleashed. I look forward to your questions but even more I am excited to hear today from so many of the exemplary chefs and food producers who may have the key to New Zealand becoming the next big food destination for sophisticated and hungry travellers."

Nga mihi.

22 April 2015


I attended the Metro Restaurant of the Year awards this week and was pretty impressed with the line-up of winners. If you seek a fine meal in the city head out and buy the latest mag as all the good places are listed there, including a snazzy little booklet that is a real keeper.

Depot rightly deserves the accolade of supreme winner but I bet it was a hard choice between that very casual noisy place with fabulous food and runner-up, the utterly elegant French Café, also with fabulous food. My other thrill was that Metro recognised something I have known for a long time; Cocoro, the authentic Japanese restaurant in Brown St, Ponsonby is one of the hidden gems of our city. It deservedly has Metro’s top rating, five stars, along with being awarded Best Smart Dining Restaurant and Best Drinks Service. Their amazing chef, Makoto Tokuyama, is one of my culinary heroes for his inventiveness and attention to seeking out the absolute freshest, organic and ethically grown and raised products.

Other standout accolades were Mark Wallbank and Che Barrington for Restaurateurs of the Year. They really did put themselves on the line by opening Woodpecker Hill, taking three timely risks; southern barbecue, whisky and bourbon dominating the bar, and daring to open in Parnell (more about that later.) In that category Sid Sahrawat must have come close as he has been a constant fine dining star at his little Ponsonby gem, Sidart, but has made a bold and clever move to open his casual and excellent Cassia in the inner city. As my daughter, Miss Moet, said, “Cassia presents all the flavours of India, but you can never find food that good in India!”

There were many more well-deserved accolades of course, and that line-up and selection has me thinking. About 20 years ago I declared the North Shore a “culinary wasteland.” At least in 2015 Metro has found two restaurants on the shore worth including in their top fifty. But the concentration of the other top places is confined to the inner business district and waterfront and the inner west of the city, apart from two places in Parnell, two in Mt Eden, one in Bombay and an astonishing six on Waiheke.

So now that singular culinary wasteland has become the culinary wastelands (plural) of the bays and eastern suburbs including Newmarket and Remuera, the far west, the complete area of South Auckland, and the far flung eastern reaches of the city beyond the Tamaki River, and still most of the the North Shore. Do those people eat out? I bet they do. If only Mark Wallbank, Sid Sahrawat and others like them were willing to take even more risk. What will 2016 bring?

16 April 2015


There’s only one restaurant in New Zealand that has earned the Moët et Chandon designation; ‘Privilege Account.’ So it was very fitting that a few media personalities gathered at lunchtime this week at The Grove to meet Moët’s winemaker, Marc Brevot over three or four tastes of the latest releases matched to the simply superb fare of Chef Ben Bayly.

Champagne is glamorous, squeaks of luxury and, need I say, is delicious. The art of making the non-vintage version of this bubbly treat has changed however in recent times. The world’s most popular Champagne, M&C Brut Imperial, is the wine that does not have a particular year to identify it, but nevertheless is released each year. The winemaker must retain the same flavour profile from year to year, despite the variance and impact of differing weather each season brings. So the challenge for M. Brevot is to blend different vintages of the wine to achieve that.

Over the three course degustation meal, Moët et Chandon Brut Imperial non-vintage, 2006 Grand Vintage Rose champagne, 2006 Grand Vintage 2006 and Nectar Imperial were served. A wonderful yeasty aroma hung over the table and we were not disappointed. These wines were seductive, although interestingly my favourite of the line- up was the non-vintage; it was soft, delicate and oh-so-easy to drink.

As for The Grove‘s kitchen, it was in top form as usual. Three courses that were all heaven sent via the genius of Ben Bayly. First a stunning sweet and soft house cured bresaola which literally melted in the mouth and served with soft quail’s egg, and an amazing sorbet that had a hint of wasabi. Next rabbit ballotine surrounded by little nuggets of crayfish with celtuce (a sort of asparagus/celery/lettuce) and topped with a crisp wafer filled with farmed French caviar. Now that’s real luxury in my opinion and it was truly tasty.

Finally some poached Marlborough figs (pictured above) with a stunning fresh cheese that had been infused with fig leaf, and blackberries. A dish that reeked of autumn, right on target in a week where the summer finally conceded it could not go on forever.

What a treat. Champagne and some of the best food on earth. Thanks Moët et Chandon, Marc Brevot and the team at The Grove.

7 April 2015


A “withering attack on Zomato” were the words used by a Herald on Sunday reporter who had garnered information from a leaked private email I had written to a PR maven.

In actual fact this was a very polite note in which I had declined to attend the “Restaurant Summit” dinner organised by Zomato. What I had actually said in private was, “I cannot attend as I do not agree with commercial sites like theirs that rely on unqualified and unpaid restaurant reviewers to contribute. Our restaurants and the hospitality industry put themselves on the line every day, and spend years and large amounts of money gaining experience, training staff and building their business. Unqualified amateur diners who are rewarded with stars for the sheer number of reviews they post, but usually are lacking in expertise and have no knowledge of the industry, can completely destroy the trade and reputation of good restaurants.”

There’s no doubt that in this age of social media, everyone wants and probably is entitled to have their own say and opinion. Trip Advisor, Yelp and now Zomato are all very powerful tools for the consumer. So much so that MenuMania, started locally to provide information about restaurants, actually sold their site to Zomato. I have no idea how much money changed hands but it illustrates just how powerful Zomato plan to be if they can snap up anything vaguely resembling their own site.

It is easy to spot incorrect profiles, damaging comments and criticism from people who for the most part are hiding behind pseudonyms on these sites. Most of the contributors really want their own moment in the sun, or are taking revenge on something or some situation that may have been easily fixed. But when you read such ignorant comments as the following it’s no wonder restaurateurs despair.

“Please go here if you are desperate for food and have no where else.” (This was written about a restaurant in the heart of Auckland’s CBD where anyone can find almost one hundred eating places.) “The only disappointment was the wine list. It would have been great to see more local wines, not just Villa Maria and possibly an organic choice.” (The wine list had 20 local wines by the glass, and not one of those was Villa Maria.)

So what can the industry do about this? One restaurateur told me that he never reads these things. “If you do not read them, they do not exist,” he said. Well that’s okay for his well-established business where diners are often turned away, but it doesn’t work for small cafes and eateries if damning and ignorant comments sit on the site forever.

I suggest restaurateurs and chefs should demand incorrect facts be removed, insist information is refreshed and kept up to date, and when criticism is misguided, go onto the site and add your own reply (but keep it dignified.) The industry also might consider lobbying Zomato to only accept posts from people who are prepared to reveal their names rather than hiding behind some fancy moniker.

And above all restaurateurs should never ever hand out free drinks or food to amateurs who demand them “because they are going to review” you. Tell the customer that is a form of blackmail, which it is.

These people are amateurs, often with no idea of how a restaurant is run. They think they are entitled to post reviews and that is fine if they genuinely know what they are talking about.

Perhaps the saddest thing in NZ right now is we also have very few restaurant critics who set great examples by knowing their job. So called critics in many of our publications are good writers, writers who dine out. But unfortunately the picture they paint about restaurants is often very much an egocentric view of what they ate on the one night they visited the restaurant. They do not take time to engage with the owner or chef, to comprehend the philosophy behind the business, recognise the costings and they don’t really try to make sure their audience gains a real understanding of what to expect on any visit in all areas, be it cuisine, wine, ambience and service.

I have no idea how we can fix that, and I was appalled that my email was leaked to a Sunday paper!

This was originally written for Plate, the magazine of the NZ Chef's Assn.

29 March 2015


Perfect picnic food, perfect for eating anytime actually. Dedicated today to the Black Caps.

  • 500g pre-rolled flakey puff pastry
  • 50g tasty cheese
  • 8 slices farmhouse-style bacon
  • 10 eggs
  • 4-5 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley and basil
  • 2 large firm but ripe tomatoes
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place a baking tray in the oven and heat the oven to 210˚C. The baking tray will heat up and the pie can be placed directly on this which helps to cook the pastry base.

Divide the pastry into two, one piece slightly larger than the other. Ease the larger piece into a 24cm fluted pie tin with a removable base.

Grate the cheese finely and scatter over the base. Remove the rind from the bacon and cut into small strips. Place these pieces in an even layer over the cheese. Take nine of the eggs and break them one at a time, placing directly on top of the bacon. Take care not to break the yolks.

Chop the herbs very finely and scatter over evenly on top of the eggs. Apply salt and pepper liberally, and finish by placing thin slices of tomato on the herbs.

Place the second piece of pastry this on top of the pie to form a crust. Break the remaining egg into a cup and beat with a fork. Use a little of the beaten egg to seal the pastry top to the base by brushing the underside of the top pastry and gently pressing the top to the sides. Use the remaining egg to make a glaze by evenly brushing the top of the pie.

Place the pie into the pre-heated oven on the pre-heated baking tray and cook for 45-50 minutes until the pastry is golden and crisp. Remove the pie when cooked and allow to stand for at least 20 minutes. Serve warm or cold. Serves 6-8.

26 March 2015


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5 March 2015


As a good cook who makes everything from scratch I am not much of a fan of food that has flavour added. I always think, why did they need to go to all that trouble when I can do that myself? I guess in this crazy world where everyone is time-poor and assembling dinner rather than cooking it has meant clever marketing people dream up easy ways to add flavour to meals so it is ready to go.

However when some packages of Chipotle Haloumi arrived this morning from innovative The Collective I thought to myself this is worth a try. I love their products and there’s always a large pot of their stunning Straight Up yogurt in my fridge – we go through at least two a week.

I had just bought a fresh watermelon this morning at a farmstand near my home, so that became the base ingredient for my lunchtime salad pictured above. Fried Chipotle Haloumi sat atop large cubes of chilled watermelon. I added a few fresh pickings from the herb and salad garden and topped the whole dish with finely julienned carrot, cucumber and beetroot. Some pomegranate and avocado oil vinaigrette and we were ready to eat.

The trick with haloumi is to fry it gently in a soft odourless cooking oil like grapeseed oil, until the interior is melted and gooey. This chipotle version of halloumi is coated in a spicy sauce, so take care not to let the frying pan get very hot. Fry the whole 200g block at once, turning it after about 2-3 minutes to cook on the other side. Get everything ready to assemble before you throw the cheese into the pan. The water melon and herbs can be already arranged on the plate, with the julienned vegetables piled up ready to be placed on top of the hot cheese.

Cut the hot chipotle Haloumi cheese into neat fingers with a very sharp knife, toss it onto the watermelon, add the julienne of vegies and drizzle over some vinaigrette. Eat at once. Delightful smoky, slightly spicy and so delicious.

16 February 2015


If you ever needed an excuse to fire up the barbecue and grill some tasty lamb, it was yesterday, National Lamb Day. The export that carved our name into offshore markets around the world was celebrated throughout New Zealand on Sunday 15th February, exactly 133 years since the first shipment of lamb set sail from Port Chalmers in Otago on the SS Dunedin, bound for London. Those 5000 frozen carcasses arrived 98 days later in excellent condition. Since that spectacularly successful venture, the meat export industry has grown and now contributes more than $8.5 billion to the New Zealand economy. We eat a lot of lamb here but it is interesting that 95%, now carefully cut into portions, vacuum packed and chilled, is destined for export.

To celebrate National Lamb Day, I cooked a platter of delicious lamb cutlets pictured above and shared them with Matty McLean of TVNZ on a segment that ran on the TVOne News last night.

Here is the recipe:

  • 2 small racks of lamb
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard mixed with 1 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp chopped thyme, salt and pepper
  • 2 handfuls fresh salad leaves
  • 8 small beetroot, cooked and halved
  • 12 fresh figs, halved
  • Extra olive oil for drizzling and edible flowers for decoration.

Coat the lamb with the mustard mixture and roast at 230C for 15-20 minutes. Allow the lamb to rest for 15 minutes. Lay the salad leaves on a platter, and distribute the beetroot and figs evenly over the leaves. Carve the lamb into cutlets and place on top of the salad. Drizzle over really good olive oil (I use Lot 8 from Martinborough) and decorate with a few edible flowers like nasturtiums or some fresh mint leaves.

I imagine the agricultural pioneers, William Davidson and Thomas Brydone, who instigated those first lamb shipments will be slowly turning in their graves at such modern refreshing ideas!

2 January 2015


Thought I would share a little insight into eating around Matakana, the sunny wine region that's only an hour north of Auckland; perfect for a summer outing and maybe a swim at Omaha Beach or for the more adventurous, on the pristine beaches of the Tawharanui regional reserve.

The jewel in the crown of the region is Brick Bay, where there's a stunning outdoor sculpture trail that winds it way through magnificent bush and alongside the Brick Bay vineyard. It begins and ends at The Glasshouse (pic above) where visitors can enjoy good coffee, or more importantly taste the excellent wines, both indoors and out. A recent extension of the kitchen here has allowed the chefs to serve tasty restaurant style fare - I loved the creative salads, the crunchy squid and lovely contemporary ice cream sundaes. And I loved the service too.

Other vineyards offering food in the region include fine platters at Ransome winery which is just off SH1, a good menu at Mahurangi vineyard, platters with a spectacular view over Omaha Bay from OBV on the crest of the Tawharanui Rd, and the option of dining at Plume on Sharp Rd, or going rustic style with an outdoor pizza at the adjacent Herons Flight.

For sheer fun and action don't miss The Matakana, a friendly and smart country pub that is slap bang in the centre of the terrific shopping centre in Matakana village; great fish and chips, other menu options and super kiddies' food. While you're in the village look out for some tempting shopping. My favourite stores are what may be the best little Four Square in the country and the Village Bookshop that is a total gem. Many other places are really worth checking out and if it is Saturday morning when you visit, the Farmers Market is a must.

After coffee? Spoilt for choice. My top recommendation is Brambles in the Matakana Country Park, with outdoor seating in good weather, plenty of indoor tables too and free wifi. Out at Omaha Beach the Kickback Café is pretty popular, and there's a great woodfired pizza set-up that is run out of a container just by the Omaha Causeway. Other cafes in the area are Morris and James, a tranquil place that has been there longer than anywhere. Three cafes are found in Matakana Valley Rd; the excellent OOB organic ice-cream and organic coffee café on the corner, the very busy Black Dog and another, Lamington's further up the road next to the excellent butchery.

Two restaurants cater for more sophisticated dining. MMK in the Village is open for lovely brunches and fine dinners, and has a very local wine list. (You can also taste local wines upstairs in the Village wine bar, just by what may be New Zealand's best cinema complex.) The other restaurant with a full menu and bar worth checking out is The Stables at the Country Park.

Finally, Charlie's on Sharp Rd is a 'must visit.' This place started out as a strawberry and grape farm with gate sales and now is a busy centre for Charlie's Gelato, wood fired pizza and other treats. My recommendation here? The chocolate gelato - totally delicious.

16 December 2014


Two weeks of eating in Paris and Burgundy reaffirmed my love of French food. Despite what some critics and naysayers might have us believe, the glorious food of France continues to reign as one of the great cuisines of modern times.

There’s a move away from traditional fare as French chefs embrace more vegetables and healthier options. We spied many vegetable based menus. Main course choices with a large lump of protein dominating the plate, accompanied by a rich heavy sauce, seem passé. Often the food almost danced across our plates in a riotous symphony of colour and textures.

There’s no doubt that you don’t have to spend a fortune to eat fresh exciting food. Look out for prix fixe menus offered at lunch time when you can dine at a fraction of the price of the á al carte dinner. What you must do is your homework, as we did, travelling with reservations already made, or addresses and contact numbers for recommended restaurants. Otherwise you’re likely to join the throngs eating very mediocre food in tourist traps in city centres.

The standout experience we enjoyed in Paris was Sunday lunch at Le Train Bleu. This very authentic French brasserie has perched above the main entrance to the busy Gare de Lyon since 1901. It is a Belle Epoque gem, complete with lashings of gilt and velvet, and very recently authentically restored and renovated. A bar, waiting lounges and the large restaurant are reached via a grand staircase, sweeping up from the station’s main platform. Forty one large tableaux, painted in oil, decorate the walls and ceiling - representing trains, railways and destinations.

It is also known for the parade of famous French personalities like Coco Chanel, Brigitte Bardot, Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau who were regular diners last century. In 1971 Le Train Bleu was declared a historic monument so travellers will be able to capture the grandeur of a former era of travel forever.

The restaurant menu is filled with French classic dishes, as that is what everyone heads there for. At almost all the tables the choice seemed to be either the aromatic leg of roast lamb, carved on a silver trolley or genuine steak tartare mixed by nimble waiters. Both dishes were dealt to tableside. (I was reminded of the hilarious scene in a movie where actor Rowan Atkinson as Mr Bean dines at Le Train Bleu, orders that very same tartare and then fills his pockets with the raw mixture that he finds so distasteful.)

Prices were high but we chose to eat one of those aforementioned bargains; a prix fixe special menu of eggs Florentine, a fish main course, rum baba for dessert, and a half bottle of wine each. All delicious.