1 October 2011
I love the Grove, which for the last two years has been voted Auckland's best restaurant by Metro magazine.
The dish above is one of the most delicious dishes I've eaten in a restaurant this year. Ben Bayly, the third chef owner Michael Dearth has employed (the others were Michael Meredith and Sid Sarawat - is there something going on with initials here; MM, SS, and now BB?) served this as main course at a luncheon to demonstrate SAMSUNG kitchen appliances. Ben said he wanted the induction cooktop and I want the big doble door Fridge with a wine cooling drawer and a freezer drawer.
The dish is Karitane crayfish, tender poussin topped with purple potato crisps and served on pea puree, spinach and t-dah! the most delicious spring asparagus tips. It was matched with Felton Road's chardonnay and I am going to have to get to the restaurant soon to eat more of Ben's food.
St Patrick's Square, Wyndham St, T 09 368 4129
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
21 September 2011
OMG. I want to live there. The Grill in Sky City’s Grand Hotel is the best addition to Auckland dining in a long time. Sean Connolly is already well known through his TV3 series “Under The Grill’ (last episode was shown last night.) He’s a highly talented good humoured chef who cut his culinary teeth in Huddersfield many years ago and has been lured to Auckland via Sydney. Nice to see talent heading this way in a reversal of the usual ‘let’s go overseas’ exit of many of our best chefs.
No expense has been spared in creating a seriously grown-up restaurant with the white-tiled kitchen on full view, spacious dining areas up and down, and a stunningly understated private dining room that overlooks the hotel foyer. Full marks to Andrew Lister, architect.
Sean’s food is equally grown up. You can eat as luxuriously as you like. Caviar, jamon from Spain, thick succulent steaks, freshly shucked oysters, garlicky prawns, suckling pig platter for two or more, the freshest of fish, seafood platters that include crayfish, tender seasonal vegetables and those famous Sean Connolly fries, cooked in duck fat. And everything, yes everything is exactly as it should be. The best possible ingredients, all perfectly cooked, perfectly approachable and perfectly understandable.
As for the wines; that’s where I want to live. In that cellar. The list boasts almost everything you can imagine drinking from around New Zealand and beyond. It’s a vast collection and I hear there are plenty of bottles being cellared right now for future diners. Well done Sky City!
The Grill by Sean Connolly, Sky City Grand, 90 Federal St, T 09 363 7067
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
19 September 2011
Some people get all the breaks. Three glorious days on Vomo while my husband worked on engineering solutions, had us flying ten minutes by helicopter from Denarau to a real piece of Paradise.
Vomo Island may be the most perfect luxury holiday destination in the Fiji Islands. Guests have a villa to themselves, some on the shoreline of a perfect white sandy beach, while others are perched on the hillside with glorious sea views over the canopy of coconut palms. Vomo is kid-friendly too, and there’s enough space and help for the little ones that I hardly noticed they were there.
We enjoyed a daily changing a la carte menu in the central restaurant, overlooking the beach, across the resort pool, and sipped cocktails at sunset in a specially constructed bar at the western end of the tiny island. While I slept late, my husband fished at dawn, returning with a walu that the chef whipped up island style for our lunch.
And after my golf overload at Denarau, I wasn’t tempted by what could be the most unique nine-hole golf course in the Pacific, cleverly constructed over, under and around the palms. But I did spend time reading by the pool, feeding fish that almost nibbled my ankles, snorkelling amongst the coral and observing tanks of baby turtles that are part of the island’s conservation programme. Vomo is a little slice of heaven.
Vomo Island: www.vomofiji.com
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
26 August 2011
What a privilege. I was asked to cut the ribbon to open Swamy and Padmaja Akuthota's new branch of Satya at 57 Mt Eden Rd last night. First we all set off party poppers to celebrate (that's the picture above, you can make me out next to Susan Buchanan in the hat. William Chen took the pic.) What fun we had.
Then I cut the ribbon and we were treated to an absolutely magnificent feast of delicious chaat (snacks), chutneys, spices, breads, curries and much more. The same menu is available at all four branches of Satya (Great North Rd, K Rd and Sandringham, and now 57 Mt Eden Rd). My absolute favourites are the coconut chutney, the dahi puri snacks, the flaky roti, the tender aubergine curry and their famous Satya butter chicken.
The new restaurant is colourful and comfortable and should be a great joy to those who live in the neighbourhood.
Swamy is modest, honest and the most caring restaurateur in the city. He and his family all share the work, and they are totally delightful. Their wine list is voted on by customers, and they employ reliable and needy students to wait on tables. It's a business model that is worthy of an award. I love this place!
Satya, 57 Mt Eden Rd. T 09 5511000
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
26 August 2011
I want to go back to Wellington. Mainly to go to Ancestral again. It's the latest, chic-est, craziest,fun-filled destination restaurant in Wellywood, and sits right on that rather sleazy Courtenay Place. Maybe it's even great enough to tip the balance and force the street to be a little more upmarket.
I just can't get food like that here in Auckland. Upmarket Chinese food inspired by Sichuan and Guangzhou provinces, that's beautifully presented and takes your head off with spice-filled injections of flavour and heat. All on small plates.
And that's not all. Service is smart and sassy, the wine list really, really interesting and there's a fantastic selection of whiskies. No expense has been spared on the bar, the interior and even the courtyard that's more than little reminiscent of Matterhorn has heated seats. Wow!
31 Courtenay Place, T: 04 801 8867
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
30 June 2011
I am happy. My favourite sushi place, Bien, has opened a store in Newmarket. The lovely couple who ran the Shortland Street franchise have taken the innovative step of sharing the space witha gyoza shop.
So sushi and donburi by day, and at night different operators producing fresh gyoza.
Pictured here my favourite lunch; always two pices of smoked eel sushi with four more pieces from a great selection of freshly hand-made offerings. And of course, fabulous miso soup. Love that savoury, umami scent and taste.
Some new donburi on the menu, and they do pre-orders and takeaways!
Bien 53B Davis Crescent T:09 524 2900
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
2 May 2011
Looking for a new cafe where the food is tasty and little different from the rest? Precinct has the right credentials. One of the Pondarosa Group's new initiatives on Britomart it's open for breakfast and lunch and is aimed at food to go, but there are about ten tables if you'd rather eat in.
Loved the salads (choice of three for $10 or $15 and very tasty) and the sandwiches which had the most interesting fillings I've tried in along time. And we could not resist a lovely rhubarb crumble tart which came with cream and yogurt.
Great coffee and that great sense of style that Brendan Turner brings to everything he does. It's allied with Tyler St Garage, the large casual eatery and bar next door that runs through to Quay St, and the chic Ebisu which is sort of Tokyo meets Surry Hills with great contemporary Japanese food.
My only compaint; the music's too loud to properly conduct business, and after all the cafe is the new office!
17 Tyler St, Britomart T 64 9 300 5275
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
19 April 2011
I love this place. Only open weekdays for breakfast and lunch, it has a sharp snappy menu, a superb short wine list, two excellent operator/owners Ben Blair and Sven Nielsen, and a talented chef, Rob Richardson (who trained with Martin Bosley, no less.)
A casual but worthy atmosphere, and the menu is printed so I can read it without glasses...now that's a considerate touch. Proper bistro cooking, that's light enough to go back to work after a couple of courses. The best Caesar salad in town, lovely pasta dishes and oysters fresh from Waiheke that are served properly. (See above)
It sits a level up from Quay St, has a terrace overlooking the waterfont and offers after work drinks and snacks, no doubt for the army of corporate types who work in the glass tower above. Highly recommended.
PWC Tower, 188 Quay St, Auckland City
T: 09 357 0188
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
20 March 2011
Sometimes I wished I lived in Melbourne. Only for the markets and the restaurants, as the weather is always strange, and getting about, once you’re out of the city centre, seems like mindless driving through endless brick and tile flat suburbs where eucalyptus trees provide the only scenery.
But the culinary scene is hot. There’s always a new place opening, and the huge and diverse population means that the flavours of ethnically diverse cuisines are on offer whatever your budget. Here are a few new and old recommendations.
PM24, 24 Russell St, City T613 9207 7424
Phillippe Mouchel, who originally came to Australia to cook Paul Bocuse’s food, presents stylishly modern Aussie food that’s seriously rooted in French classic cooking. His use of contemporary and fasionable ingredients such as yuzu, swimmer crab, organic chook and ocean trout is amazing.
Momo, 23 Collins St, City T613 9659 0660
The ultimate Middle-eastern food served up by Greg Malouf in a seriously sophisticated dining room. Expect to be awakened by stunning use of spice and order anything with quail, lamb or fish. Desserts not to be missed.
Cutler & Co, 55 Gertrude St, Fitzroy T613 9419 4888
Superbly elegant dressing of an old industrial workshop in trendy Fitzroy sets the scene for Andrew McConnell’s breathtakingly tasty and modish food. I loved my portion of sweet suckling pig, the edgy salads and veggies, and perfect fish.
Cumulus, 45 Flinders Lane, City T613 9650 1445
Not quite a restaurant, but more than a café, this tiny inner city place is a haven for amazing comfort food at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Don’t miss the fresh oysters and look out for soups. The velvety, comforting chicken soup with ginger rescued and restored my health. Another gem from Andrew McConnell.
Movida Aqui, 500 Bourke St, City T613 9663 3038
It’s always been obligatory to squeeze yourself into Movida on a trip to Melbourne for Frank Camora’s amazing Spanish tapas. But now you can eat them, and bigger dishes in a spacy, light filled environment in the third Movida to open. There’s a charcoal fuelled fire-pit (whole roasted fish), perfect paella and everything Spanish you ever wished for.
Merchant, 495 Collins St, City T613 9614 7688
A major production from one of the darlings of the Melbourne scene, Guy Grossi. In a tribute to his mother’s city, Venezia, the décor is colourful and modern and there’s an enormous menu of almost casual food that you will want to return and return to. Polenta four ways, tons of pasta, and heaps of tiny and more substantial treats to indulge in.
The Atlantic, Crown Casino Complex, South Riverbank, T613 9698 8888
So often you’re told “you should have been here yesterday” but for me I left Melbourne one day too early for the opening of The Atlantic. So all I can say it is going to be my first stop next visit, for Donovan Cooke’s (he of the famed Est Est ten years back) fishy menu in the drop dead designer interior which I did get a sneaky peek at. Full of promise!
PIC: The Atlantic interior
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments
3 February 2011
There’s been a glaring gap in the market for exclusive, chic Asian and ethnic eateries in Auckland. So I was given a clue when trying to book at the new Japanese restaurant, Cocoro, when told I had to have the degustation menu. “Any allergies or dislikes?” (One of us has a garlic allergy and yes, I know that is tragic, and the other prefers to eat fish when dining out.)
This recent arrival in the backstreets of Ponsonby reeks of the sophistication that’s been missing on the local scene. In a low slung, perfectly--crafted space decked out with sleek timber and fashionable concrete, staff are friendly and helpful, and most importantly the food is almost breathtakingly put together for a serious food experience. Our menus were waiting. “Omotenashi” – a six course degustation dinner may well be the most worthy $80 I will spend this year on a single dinner.
Chef Makoto Tokuyama visits the fish market everyday to find the fish for his menu. Octopus for the starter (almost crunchy yet incredibly tender) was followed by a sashimi and sushi course that took that concept to a new high, both literally and figuratively. This high carved box appeared that looked like a miniature wardrobe. Hinged, it opened up to reveal three shelves, each with a delicate plate of perfect fish. A freshly shucked Southern Glory oyster in its shell with seaweed and cucumber; fat, savoury and adorned with ponzu vinegar lay on the top shelf. Akaroa salmon sashimi sat on the second shelf, and at the bottom, some beautiful kingfish nigiri sushi. Heaven in a box.
The subsequent parade of courses continued to delight, with the highlight being a meltingly tender gratin of scallop, prawn and oyster alongside the most wonderful chawanmushi I have ever had…silky smooth savoury custard that had a tiny queen scallop hidden within. Our “allergies and dislikes” had been thoughtfully taken care of. Agadashi tofu for me while he had tofu with tiny diced vegetables that included the dreaded garlic, and flawlessly cooked lamb (“no more than 68° as that’s the point the protein shrinks” we were told) for me while he had glacé Antarctic toothfish, a dish that harked back to the chef’s childhood when sweetness was proffered with savoury food.
Ignore the very well chosen wine menu in favour of sake here, as there’s a full range of amazing flavours and textures to dive into, and not surprisingly to match this wonderful food. But my heart went out to the diners around us who hadn’t booked, and thus could not try the degustation dinner. Their menus and plates sported dishes like sushi, tempura prawns, teriyaki chicken and other predictable suspects. I’m sure they were all beautifully cooked and really tasty, but their envy of our food was very evident.
56 Brown St, Ponsonby ph 09 360 0927 Open Tuesday to Saturday
Print • ∞ Permalink • Comments