2 February 2014

DEPOT, SKY CITY

On a whim we rolled up to Depot mid week for our first meal out for 2014. As usual a small crowd was gathered on the footpath, waiting, waiting, waiting. However if there's one place that treats potential diners well in this town, it's Al Brown's diner style destination restaurant. A stack of warm woolly throws to snuggle into and keep the cold wind at bay, and staff who are on their toes and deliver a beer or wine to keep everyone happy while taking their turn in line.

I have no idea why more people haven't copied Al's concept of serving up food that everyone wants to eat. From the freshly shucked oysters and clams to the obligatory sliders that are just 2 or three bites of perfectly cooked fish, mayo and sweet little buns that kick start the meal, the food in this place is heaven.

It's casual, reliable, and the kitchen overseen by the genius chef Kyle Street, pumps out a never ending stream of dishes that are exactly what New Zealand 'kai' is all about. You may have to perch at a table with others but as it is all so amiable these may end up to be your new best friends.

Here's what I ate after those starters: a remarkably fresh 'sashimi' of kingfish served with a apple mayo and sticks of fresh apple (I think, as I was only allowed one bite for the husband got all territorial over this dish). Then a salad of very thinly sliced prosciutto with grilled peach slices, rocket leaves, roasted macadamias and just enough blue cheese to make it interesting.

I'd been told to try the bone marrow, a take on Fergus Henderson's specialty at St John's in London. I have had f Fergus' version and I must say Depot's take on it is better as the large bones are split in half down the middle then roasted and so all that gorgeous fatty inner part is richly browned and really melting. (Fergus cuts the bones the other way and the fat remains rather pallid, even if it is delicious.) Accompanied by a parsley and red onion salad and a pile of thin toast, this may be one of the most gutsy yet superb dishes of the moment.

Last up was the large kingfish belly, also roasted and served with a generous dollop of aubergine kasundi and more toast. We literally scraped every segment of flesh from those bones as you can see from the pic above.

If you haven't been to Depot, or even if you have make sure you go soon. This is relaxing food you could eat every night and perfect to linger and enjoy over a tumbler or two of wine, some ice cold beer. Great service too and if you're lucky like we were, Al Brown, the man himself may even wait on your table.

Depot, Federal St, Sky City Grand. No bookings.